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FAO : Amp n Sub Heads


t-dan

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yeah i upgraded my door speakers,6x9's with a sub isnt always good tho

If a system has good front speakers, normally 5 inch or greater, and a sub woofer then the whole range of music can be played effectivly.If 6x9's are then added in the parcel shelf, and are playing full range the following issues occur..Bass cancellation, due to the subs and 6x9's playing the same frequencies. It also muddles the sound quite badly. Due to the subs and 6x9's effectively sharing the same enclosure. In some severe cases they can even get destroyed due to the subs pushing too much air around them.Also in this type of setup the sound is dragged backwards, this is down to personal preference.If the 6x9's are setup not to play full range they can be useful. If they are set up in a bandpass configuration so they only play midbass. Roughly 300Hz-80Hz then they can add the extra kick which smaller components can't. This is useful for car where getting big speakers up front is a problem. However the sound is still dragged backwards quite badly.In many situations where midbass can be played from the front it is better in terms of SQ to remove the rear speakers. This way the sub bass cannot be pinpointed so all the sound appears to be coming from the front.thanks to "www.talkaudio.co.uk" for this info 6x9s on a parcel shelf with a sub in the boot will not work!Simple demo.1. Unplug you wires from your 6x9s2. Set stereo at the normal listening volume as you would have it while driving.3. Sit on the back seat of the car and look at the cones on the 6x9s. See how there moving! With out wires its a miricle aint it? no its not its the air presure that the subs moving in the boot thats making them move. If there where wired up they would be fighting this presure and you would not be getting the maximum you can from your sub.Also is audio recorded in four channels errmmm NO its recored in two left and right (exept for the very rare 5.1 audio dvds that are availble) so you only need 2 channels which should be at the front of the car as if you were at a concert would you face the front or the back? The human ear is designed to hear sound at its optimum from the front. The reason you can get away with the sub being out of the way in the boot is that low frequancys travel well where as high frequancys dont.
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why wouldnt you amp co-ax speakers, if you've already got the wiring there i dont see the problem. plus by doin that your puttin less strain on the head unit. they usually only put out about 4*25Wrms, so but ampin the speakers it lets the head unit put more power in to the rear speakers (thats if youve got 4speakers....)have you got a standard golf head unit or an aftermarket one?
The Comps are the most important and they carry the main power, both peak and rms.The Coaxials are just to fill the car up with the sound so it doesnt sound like its just coming from the front.Bun amping the back speakers.
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I went to a shop called BassJunkies earlier for a 4 gauge full amp kit its £55 and for the connector for the back of my head unit its £25 and i spoke to my link at Halfords and he said u remove a panel and theres 4 screws whats holding the head unit in

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It depends about the amplifier, if you want a nice setup, geta head unit with 4 amplified outputs (pre-amp) that way you wont have to bridge anything when it comes to hooking speakers and sh*t up, you can get 2x pre-amplified outputs, and your probably gonna have to bridge a connection or two to set it up for best pefroamance and sound.#And someone asked the RMS power of the amp...peakx0.7071=rms powerso800x0.7071= 500rms approxMAKE SURE the amplifier power is higher than the subs or you will blow it up

can i use the 1000w sub as a type of 6x9 parcel shelf speaker, like take it out the box and that
nah you cant do that, you need it boxed, air tight as possible, if theres no enclosure behind it, when the cne thumps in, theres no air behind it to pop it back, so you will just hear some shtitty dry bass with no punch.
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The Comps are the most important and they carry the main power, both peak and rms.The Coaxials are just to fill the car up with the sound so it doesnt sound like its just coming from the front.Bun amping the back speakers.
Please tell me that you wrongly quoted me there n u meant soneone else, as one does not want to send for u unduely. biggrin.gif
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....And someone asked the RMS power of the amp...peakx0.7071=rms powerso800x0.7071= 500rms approx......
Who ever told you that mugged you off straight to your face!!there is NO formula to working out the rms from the "peak" it all comes down to the manufacturer and their specs. If i build a sub and for say 0.002443 of a second it can put out 5000W i can splash that all over the box as the peak, forget the fact that in normal operational use you would only get out about 50Wrms, the figures have NO relation to each other.Thats how Sony and their sh*t Xplod have sold so much, b'cause chavy lil f*ckers see the 1000/2000Watts splashed all over the subs n amps and think "RRRAAHHHH im gettin all that wattage for £100 yeah thats dope bruv" biggrin.gif Whenever you go into a shop and you have to ask about sounds or are lookin @ sounds ALWAYS look for the rms figures, trusay on the shitty brands they wont even show it, they will just hype the peak, from their doin that you should know what time it is!
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Who ever told you that mugged you off straight to your face!!there is NO formula to working out the rms from the "peak" it all comes down to the manufacturer and their specs. If i build a sub and for say 0.002443 of a second it can put out 5000W i can splash that all over the box as the peak, forget the fact that in normal operational use you would only get out about 50Wrms, the figures have NO relation to each other.Thats how Sony and their sh*t Xplod have sold so much, b'cause chavy lil f*ckers see the 1000/2000Watts splashed all over the subs n amps and think "RRRAAHHHH im gettin all that wattage for £100 yeah thats dope bruv" biggrin.gif Whenever you go into a shop and you have to ask about sounds or are lookin @ sounds ALWAYS look for the rms figures, trusay on the shitty brands they wont even show it, they will just hype the peak, from their doin that you should know what time it is!
Skeen @ arguing with a qualified electrician, but anyway...These Sonyt Xplod subs are measures 1-2000 watts PEAK power, thats in conjunction with an AC circuit anyway. But yea, thse Xploads dont actually measure the true peak power, it doesn't mention what loads etc, so in reality they are about 5-600watt PEAK. Xplods always measure the max peak, not average.Im leanig at the moment so dont watch if im not making sense, but i am am right, to calculate RMS from peak you do peakX0.707=RMS value.
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Blud we're not talkin about wiring the upstairs neighbours spot lamps in her bedroom wit a dimmer switch, im sure your knowledge and expertise would be appreciated then, BUT for subs and the likes with speakers what i said stands!!Do you think each manufacturer is gettin out the calculator when they are makin the subs so they know what figure they can put on the back of the box??Ok ive got a Pioneer sub box infront of me, im sure you would agree thats a reputable brand ah lie? Ok the figures are 1000W Peak, and guess what it says when it comes to rms?? 700w?? nope hmmmm it says 400w.Tell you what, hit google for me, and find me a site where it says about your figure in repects to audio

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